Please support Friends of the Bees to keep this forum free to use.

Natural Beekeeping International Forum
low-cost, low-impact, balanced beekeeping for everyone

 Forum FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileYour Profile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Please Read The Rules before posting.



(country selected automatically - UK/USA/CA/AU)
Putting Frames back into hives

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    beekeeping forum -> Conventional and miscellaneous hives
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
HeatheBee
New Bee


Joined: 24 Feb 2014
Posts: 1
Location: Bristol. UK

PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 10:13 pm    Post subject: Putting Frames back into hives Reply with quote

Hello,

I recently bought two national hives including bees (during winter so they were down to their brood chamber only) and the supers were given to me separately. I have harvested lots of beautiful honey from these, but I'm wondering if its OK to put the frames back in in the spring, if potentially I could be putting frames into a hive that it didn't originally come from? Is this ok? They seem disease free. Maybe putting them all in the freezer might kill off any bacteria?

And is there a good amount of comb that should be left when I put it back in? I'm currently taking it back to the original wired wax sheet.

Thanks so much,

Heather
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Bugscouter
Silver Bee


Joined: 19 Mar 2012
Posts: 808
Location: USA/California/ Sacramento

PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey HeatheBee,

I'll answer the parts that I can, but I think you'll find that most folks will recommend not moving frames between hives.

Freezing will not kill most bacteria. Flaming the surface will, except American Foul Brood. AFB spores are so tough that nothing short of burning the supers to ash will kill them. I've even heard reports of spores being trapped under melted wax and propolis and surviving for years before the girls chewed through and released the spores.

There's no need to remove the wax from the foundation. The idea of returning comb to the hive is so they don't have to build new comb. Its takes about 8-9 pounds of honey to produce a pound of wax. That said, many people, including myself, will remove old comb after a few years because the wax collects many of the chemicals and pesticides they bring in with the pollen. At that point you want to remove everything: comb, foundation, and frames.

Ron
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
rmcpb
Scout Bee


Joined: 17 Jul 2011
Posts: 447
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While the advice not to put frames from another hive in to your existing hive is good we do it all the time when we add extra brood from a strong hive to a weaker hive. Its a calculated risk and if the hives are in the same aipary then the risk of actually introducing a disease to the hive that is not actually there already is minimal.

Considering the boxes came from the same supplier it is probably OK to just super with the extras when you need the space. Like I said, its a calculated risk.

As for the amount of wax to leave, just put the uncapped frames back in. It will be a boost to the hive in its first season but, as Ron said, look at cycling out some of the frames each year to keep your comb less than three or four years old. I move about a quarter of my frames out each year by adding some to the brood nest so the displaced ones are used as honey frames by the bees, these are crushed and strained then put back in for fresh comb to be built. The old honey frames are done the same way but don't have to be moved. Just pull them out, cut out the comb leaving a bit at the top as a giuide, return frame to hive.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    beekeeping forum -> Conventional and miscellaneous hives All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

SPECIAL OFFER FOR UK FORUM MEMBERS - Buy your protective clothing here and get a special 15% discount! (use the code BAREFOOTBEEKEEPER at checkout and be sure to 'update basket')



Are the big energy companies bleeding you dry?


Is way too much of your hard-earned family income going up in smoke?

Are you worried about what could happen if the ageing grid system fails?

You need to watch this short video NOW to find out how YOU can cut your energy bills TO THE BONE within 30 days!

WATCH THE VIDEO NOW



(country selected automatically - UK/USA/CA/AU)

Conserving wild bees

Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.

Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.

There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here

More about bumblebees and solitary bees here

Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)

Barefoot Beekeeper Podcast



Now available from Lulu.com


Now available from Lulu.com


Now available from Lulu.com


4th Edition paperback now available from Lulu.com

See beekeeping books for details and links to ebook versions.
site map
php. BB © 2001, 2005 php. BB Group

View topic - Putting Frames back into hives - Natural Beekeeping Network Forum