Please support Friends of the Bees to keep this forum free to use.

Natural Beekeeping International Forum
low-cost, low-impact, balanced beekeeping for everyone

 Forum FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileYour Profile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Please Read The Rules before posting.



(country selected automatically - UK/USA/CA/AU)
Two questions re an artificial swarm in tbh with periscope

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    beekeeping forum -> Beginners start here
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
csturgess
House Bee


Joined: 30 Jun 2014
Posts: 11
Location: somerset, uk

PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: Two questions re an artificial swarm in tbh with periscope Reply with quote

Please help!
We have a very strong colony in a hTBH that had laid down some queen cells (one capped and a number of others with eggs but still uncapped. So we moved the queen with about 5-6 bars containing brood and honey into a second, unused hive. The new hive has an eco-floor and a periscope entrance.
The original colony is going great guns...out foraging and all seems well with them.
The new hive is chucking out dead bees (initially mostly drones it seemed), the flying bees left almost immediately. They seemed to be falling down out of the periscope rather than climbing down the wall. Those that didn't fly away immediately didn't seem to know how to get back into the hive. So we took out the plug from an opening at the base of the periscope. Today I was thrilled to see that there were some bees that have graduated to become foragers and entering the hive via the lower opening.
Two questions
1) should we have/do we need to feed them, provide water or just let them get on with it?
and
2) should we replug the lower opening in hopes that they can find their way up the periscope to the upper entrance hole?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Dexter's shed
Scout Bee


Joined: 16 May 2014
Posts: 307
Location: Grays, Essex, UK

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bees produce swarm cells with the intention of leaving the hive with the old queen to look for a new home, moving the queen with brood to a new home does not imitate a swarm, as in the wild they do not take brood with them, also when moving bees artificially they have not filled up on honey/stores as they would when naturally swarming, so in those instances yes I would feed,

when moving bees along the lines of an artificial swarm, lots of bees are needed, as foragers will fly back to the parent hive, you therefore need lots of house bees to be left to build new comb,

heres my conventional hive having an A/S carried out on it

https://youtu.be/rtPMiUxm9WM
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
csturgess
House Bee


Joined: 30 Jun 2014
Posts: 11
Location: somerset, uk

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dexter's shed!
That make a lot of sense. Of course they wouldn't have brood with them so they wouldn't have that extra stress.
Since I haven't had any other responses (v disappointed about that since this is the area of the forum for newbees like me!) I went ahead and gave them some food.
The weather has been quite cold and windy since we createed the split so I feel pretty good about that.
Your answer seems to support my decision so thanks again.

Is it just me? I have listed a few things and had no reply. Should the monitors not be giving even the most basic answers to all posts?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
AugustC
Silver Bee


Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 613
Location: Malton, North Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When tranferring the comb from the current hive to a new hive the comb will have had both foragers and nurse bees on it. When put into the new hive the foragers will all go back to the old hive which may not leave enough bees to look after the brood. When doing a split such as this (as I would call it more of a split than an artificial swarm) it is best to shake a few combs of bees from the old hive into the new hive to ensure you have enough nurse bees. With regards to feeding even though they don't have active foragers they you have given them stores so personally I would think they would be ok.

If you would like to more readily simulate a swarm depending on the size of the colony you could get a three way split!
1. Collect the queen and leave her in the old hive.
2. Split the brood and stores between the two new hives ensuring each has a queen cell or minimally young brood to raise a queen from. Shake a comb or two of young bees into the old hive as there are better wax producers.
3. All the foragers will now return to the old hive with the current queen.

This will more closely resemble a swarm as the foragers and queen are broodless. In this case you would certainly have to feed this colony as they will not have taken honey with them on their artificial swarm. A 1:1 sugar solution made into nettle tea has been shown to be very effective.
best of luck, and please remember that this isn't a job for anyone, people contribute to this forum out of a desire to help others. If your enquires haven't been given the attention you feel they deserve I am certain it wasn't intentional. This forum and all its contributors have been an invaluable source of help to me over the years.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    beekeeping forum -> Beginners start here All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

SPECIAL OFFER FOR UK FORUM MEMBERS - Buy your protective clothing here and get a special 15% discount! (use the code BAREFOOTBEEKEEPER at checkout and be sure to 'update basket')



Are the big energy companies bleeding you dry?


Is way too much of your hard-earned family income going up in smoke?

Are you worried about what could happen if the ageing grid system fails?

You need to watch this short video NOW to find out how YOU can cut your energy bills TO THE BONE within 30 days!

WATCH THE VIDEO NOW



(country selected automatically - UK/USA/CA/AU)

Conserving wild bees

Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.

Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.

There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here

More about bumblebees and solitary bees here

Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)

Barefoot Beekeeper Podcast



Now available from Lulu.com


Now available from Lulu.com


Now available from Lulu.com


4th Edition paperback now available from Lulu.com

See beekeeping books for details and links to ebook versions.
site map
php. BB © 2001, 2005 php. BB Group

View topic - Two questions re an artificial swarm in tbh with periscope - Natural Beekeeping Network Forum