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freebee Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Dec 2015 Posts: 28 Location: The Neterlands, Leeuwarden
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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 1:15 pm Post subject: varnishing the outside of tbh |
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I have varnished the inside of my new hive and there is some left, can I also treat the outside with this mixture? (shellac + propolis + ethyl alcohol)
I am a little bit anxious to use linseed oil, I heared reports that it suddenly can catch fire |
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R Payne Foraging Bee
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 123 Location: USA, Kansas, Wichita
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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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You can use this on the outside, depending on the local conditions it may or may not last past the first season.
As to linseed oil, it can spontaneously combust. This is because it generates heat as it cures. That isn't a problem when put on something, it occurs when a cloth is used to apply the oil and then either thrown in a can or wadded up. If the cloth is spread out to cure where the heat can't build up, the chances of a fire are low. You'll know the applicator has cured when it becomes stiff.
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freebee Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Dec 2015 Posts: 28 Location: The Neterlands, Leeuwarden
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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 11:12 am Post subject: varnishing the outside of tbh |
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thank you for your answer, I thought the hive would go up in flames.
I think it's better to use linseed oil. |
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ingo50 Scout Bee
Joined: 30 May 2014 Posts: 311 Location: Newport, Gwent, Wales, UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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I have used raw linseed oil on my Warre, make sure it is raw and not boiled linseed oil. Let it dry well before introducing any bees. |
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freebee Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Dec 2015 Posts: 28 Location: The Neterlands, Leeuwarden
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 7:31 am Post subject: |
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thanks for this tip! |
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Ollie Foraging Bee
Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Posts: 136 Location: Ireland, west
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 9:26 am Post subject: lin seed oil |
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Hi
Hope this isn't a silly question but do you only paint the outside with linseed or can you do the inside as well? Im guessing not the inside? |
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freebee Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Dec 2015 Posts: 28 Location: The Neterlands, Leeuwarden
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 10:38 am Post subject: |
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I follow Phil Chandlers recommendation to use a mixture of ethyl alcohol, shellac flakes and propolis (1 litre, 250grams and about 50grams) |
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biobee Site Admin

Joined: 14 Jun 2007 Posts: 1059 Location: UK, England, S. Devon
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 11:16 am Post subject: |
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That recipe is intended mainly for the interior of the hive. I don't put anything on the outside these days. |
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freebee Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Dec 2015 Posts: 28 Location: The Neterlands, Leeuwarden
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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can you tell me how long a tbh will last without treatment on the outside? |
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biobee Site Admin

Joined: 14 Jun 2007 Posts: 1059 Location: UK, England, S. Devon
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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It depends on:
1. the type of timber you used to build it
2. your local climate - UV and damp are the enemies of all things
3. how good your roof is at keeping out the weather |
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ingo50 Scout Bee
Joined: 30 May 2014 Posts: 311 Location: Newport, Gwent, Wales, UK
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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 10:20 am Post subject: |
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Hi Ollie.
Linseed oil on the outside only. Also best not to have fresh timber. Bees often don't like the smell of it. I have not yet tried Phil's receipe for coating the inside. Bees will coat with propolis themselves , I cannot replicate this, so best if they make it themselves as it is part of their extended immune system.
Regarding longevity of a TBH. Would add that if you can afford Cedar or get it from a local sawmill which is usually cheaper than local merchant, it will last and does not require any treatment. I have used pine for my TBH's ecofloor and painted this. Will be easy to replace if perishes, however so far cedar body holding out well. Good luck Ollie, I used Phil's plans to build mine and you don't need very advanced woodworking skills. |
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Barbara Site Admin
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 1857 Location: England/Co.Durham/Ebchester
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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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I have a hive that I made out of an old veneered chipboard corner cabinet (I naively thought it was solid teak until I cut into it! ) I made a big overhanging roof for it and after 4.5 years untreated, it's holding up fine. I used pine for the legs which were given a coat or two of creosote at the bottom but otherwise it hasn't been treated. You could also consider scorching as a means of preserving.
I agree with Phil that treating may not be necessary if you have a good roof on it, as with a Kenyan style top bar hive, there is very little of it exposed to the elements that will cause it to rot/degrade. |
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Bruce_S House Bee
Joined: 04 Jun 2016 Posts: 11 Location: New York, USA
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:01 am Post subject: |
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One of my sons and I recently made two top bar hives of cedar. I applied a couple of coats of pure tung oil to all the external surfaces. It resulted in a transparent, waterproof finish accentuating the natural colors of the cedar. We've had several severe thunderstorms in April, May and early June and the surface, so far, looks like the day I applied the tung oil in early April. We'll see how it holds up after a winter or two. It is often very cold, snowy and icy during the winter where we live in New York in the lower Hudson Valley. [/img] |
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