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    vertical vertical Warré hive / the super vertical Warré hive
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    Post new topic   Reply to topic    beekeeping forum -> Warré, Perone and other vertical top bar hives
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    nicvan
    super bee


    Joined: 08 Feb 2009
    Posts: 309
    Location: UK, devon

    PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Fascinating. Keep us posted please
    _________________
    Nic, born in the Netherlands, living in the UK, Devon, my written skils are disabled by my dislexia.
    WHO DOESN'T KNOW HISTORY WILL REPEAT IT.
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    zaunreiter
    modbee


    Joined: 26 Nov 2007
    Posts: 896
    Location: Germany, NorthWest

    PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Today I dismantled the hive the first time!

    The boxes were not interconnected - just as predicted (still I do not know why). But the cell orientation (the edges) were predicted to point sidewards. That was not the case - the cells pointed in every direction one can imagine! Bees.... Laughing

    Honey comb in the super-vertical hive:



    Connection or bridges were relatively rare. I should have spaced the gaps between topbars more narrow as is in the original Warré design. That will produce even better results.



    That is the brood box - combs totally covered by bees!


    Bernhard
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    (latin: where bees, there health)
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    jeezlebarf
    super bee


    Joined: 08 Dec 2008
    Posts: 332
    Location: N.Ireland, Co.Antrim

    PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Great to see your creation in action Bernhard. How far down/how long are the brood combs? Did they take up the whole length of your super vertical yet?
    _________________
    'Leave your bees alone' Charlie Nothing
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    zaunreiter
    modbee


    Joined: 26 Nov 2007
    Posts: 896
    Location: Germany, NorthWest

    PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Not the full length, yet. One box of brood, another box of honey. They felt heavy, so they will be fine for winter. It was amazing how warm the brood box was.

    Bernhard
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    Serg
    house bee


    Joined: 10 Dec 2008
    Posts: 13
    Location: Rusia, the Urals

    PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:55 am    Post subject: Cross-bars Reply with quote

    zaunreiter

    Bernhard,

    a simple way to ensure that deep top-bar boxes will not get interconnected with combs is two cross-bars near the bottom of a box. Cross-bars are fixed in the box across the direction of the combs and they are located at 10 mm higher than the lowermost edge of the box, so there are 10 mm gap ("bee-space") between the cross-bars and the top-bars of the lower box.

    As a result:
    1. Bees understand that these cross-bars may serve as good base for the combs and attach bottoms of the combs to cross-bars, not to the top-bars of the next box.
    2. Even if wax connections or bridges occur, it's easy to divide boxes without wire, because you are guaranteed that there will be at least 16 gaps free of wax and propolis (each gap is 1 square inch) in the places where 2 cross-bars go over the 8 top-bars of the next box.
    3. When a box is taken off the hive the burden is effectively distributed among either top-bars and cross-bars, so break-off will hardly happen.

    (2 cross-bars near the bottom of the box were invented by Illarion Kullanda, Rusian beekeeper of 1880x, who used Warre-like top-bar straw hive with deep narrow boxes, resembling to your super-vertical. His boxes were cylindrical and their dimensions were: diameter - 267 mm, height - 356 mm).


    Last edited by Serg on Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:22 am; edited 3 times in total
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    zaunreiter
    modbee


    Joined: 26 Nov 2007
    Posts: 896
    Location: Germany, NorthWest

    PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Thank you, Serg, for that information! Indeed, very interesting.

    Do you have pictures or a book by Illarion Kullanda? I would be interested in more details about his way to keep bees.

    Thank you,

    Bernhard
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    Serg
    house bee


    Joined: 10 Dec 2008
    Posts: 13
    Location: Rusia, the Urals

    PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Bernhard,
    here are some pictures from Larry Kullanda's book "People's bee":






    A bottom view, where you can see 2 cross-bars (I marked them with blue):




    As for top-bars, Kullanda adviced to make an armature in the center of the comb with a wooden twig - to prevent break-off when combs are moved:


    The whole book "People's bee - a popular manual for the right beekeeping" (Penza, 1882) by Illarion Semenovich Kullanda is available here: http://rapidshare.com/files/275857846/Kullanda_People_s_bee.rar
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    jeezlebarf
    super bee


    Joined: 08 Dec 2008
    Posts: 332
    Location: N.Ireland, Co.Antrim

    PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Wooooaaahhh!!!!!!!!!! Check out the twig! What an inspired idea for comb strengthening. File it in biodynamics now Gareth.
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    Gareth
    modbee


    Joined: 29 Oct 2008
    Posts: 2261
    Location: UK, England, Oxfordshire (west)

    PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    jeezlebarf wrote:
    Wooooaaahhh!!!!!!!!!! Check out the twig! What an inspired idea for comb strengthening. File it in biodynamics now Gareth.


    Actually, I downloaded the book. I hadn't realised it was in Russian. Embarassed

    As to the twig, I've tried this, or something similar, but the bees built two separate combs, one on either side. It was the following season before the comb fully integrated the central support. I think others have found similar results.
    _________________
    Gareth

    Other experience may lead to different conclusions. I live in a maritime climate with cool summers and wet winters.
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    Serg
    house bee


    Joined: 10 Dec 2008
    Posts: 13
    Location: Rusia, the Urals

    PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Gareth wrote:
    As to the twig, I've tried this, or something similar, but the bees built two separate combs, one on either side. It was the following season before the comb fully integrated the central support.


    Gareth, thanks for this notice. Did you use it in horizontal top-bar hive?

    As for Kullanda's advise, I guess, his hive was deep and narrow, bees' comb-building conduct differs in different hives and depends on the type of the box.

    A "bright" idea came to me Very Happy - to spit pieces of comb on a central twig to quicken its integration. And to experiment with different thickness and length of the twig.
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    welshofdave
    flying bee


    Joined: 20 Feb 2009
    Posts: 161
    Location: UK, Essex

    PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    jeezlebarf wrote:
    Wooooaaahhh!!!!!!!!!! Check out the twig! What an inspired idea for comb strengthening. File it in biodynamics now Gareth.


    BWrangler does it that way:

    http://www.bwrangler.com/tbar.htm
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    zaunreiter
    modbee


    Joined: 26 Nov 2007
    Posts: 896
    Location: Germany, NorthWest

    PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Thanks for posting the pictures!

    Bernhard
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    (latin: where bees, there health)
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    biobee
    Site Admin


    Joined: 14 Jun 2007
    Posts: 5078
    Location: UK, England, S. Devon

    PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Gareth wrote:

    As to the twig, I've tried this, or something similar, but the bees built two separate combs, one on either side. It was the following season before the comb fully integrated the central support. I think others have found similar results.


    I found they did one of four things:

    1. They build a separate comb each side of the twig
    2. They bend the comb around the twig, not attaching to it
    3. They incorporate it into the comb
    4. They built comb one side only, then used the vertical edge to build queen cells.

    I didn't do it on a big enough scale to say which tendency was dominant, but there was enough variation for me not to bother recommending it as a practical technique.

    Somewhere... I saw pictures of somebody using a string with a weight on the bottom instead of a stick/twig. I can just imaging the horrible tangle that would result from transporting a box of top bars with strings and weights... but if you are tidy and wind the string around the bar, it might be worth a shot. I'm not entirely sure what it sould achieve though - I have never known my bees to need a plumb-line in order to build vertical comb.
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    Greg
    super bee


    Joined: 01 Apr 2008
    Posts: 565
    Location: Canada, Ontario, Kingston

    PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    very interesting. Alas would not be able to use that over here due to inspection laws.

    I am assuming that the bees don't mind the scent of charred wood?
    _________________
    Greg Hounsell
    Seldom Fools Apiculture
    http://sfapiculture.ca
    Eastern Ontario's first biodynamic top-bar apiaries
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    Garret
    super bee


    Joined: 04 Apr 2009
    Posts: 818
    Location: Canada, BC, Delta

    PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    zaunreiter wrote:


    Bernhard


    The honey super looks as though it was built as storage comb and no brood was ever raised in the combs. Is this true? Do you know which box the brood was first started?
    Curious as to how they organized their nest at the start and how they built out from there.
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