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Treating mites in the winter

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    beekeeping forum -> Bee health: the treatment (or not) of diseases and parasites
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Ernie Farmboy
flying bee


Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 103
Location: USA, Olympia, Washington

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 5:26 am    Post subject: Treating mites in the winter Reply with quote

This is a first for me, need some help here.
I recently"inherited" an old lang hive of bees, slid a screen floor under it when I got it and discovered that it looks bad with varroa. What's the best way to treat them in the winter. Do I just go ahead and open them and treat, nothing to lose type of thing?
The weather is partly rainy/cloudy, 30's degree at night, maybe up to low 50's degree in the day. Some of my regular hives have a little activity outside the hive during the warmer times, but for the most part they are clustered. During the warm season, I normally treat with powdered sugar, essential oils, drone frame, and screen floor. I am debating whether to chance it and wait until early spring and treat then. I hate to risk losing even a "sad" hive without trying to save it. Any ideas for these girls?
Thanks,
Ernie
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nicvan
super bee


Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 309
Location: UK, devon

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for the product "Hive Clean" of Beevital a mixture oils and acids. I havn't used it myself but it could be an option for me if I would have Top bars with a beespace in between.
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Gareth
Site Admin


Joined: 29 Oct 2008
Posts: 3088
Location: UK, England, Oxfordshire (west)

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I hate to risk losing even a "sad" hive without trying to save it. Any ideas for these girls?


I know it's tough and makes you feel bad, but sometimes we have to accept, as natural beekeepers, that some hives just don't make it. Maybe this is one. Presumably it has not been treated and the bees have not coped with the mites, so that is telling you something.
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'Humanity is like a blind man who does not know where he is heading. He gropes around with the cane of scientific knowledge ....... Foolishness comes out looking smart'. Masanobu Fukuoka
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Vee-aitch
guard bee


Joined: 28 Jul 2008
Posts: 83
Location: UK/Cornwall/Truro

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:37 pm    Post subject: hive clean Reply with quote

Hello Ernie,

I've used Hive Clean very recently - because my bees went from low varroa counts over the summer to horrendously high ones at the start of September. It contains: Water / Saccharose / Citric acid / Oxalic acid / Propolis extract / Essential oils. It professes to be non-toxic - not killing varroa instantly but irritating them so they fall off the bees. It also encourages grooming amongst the bees.

It is recommended for organic use (even during honey flows) and I have found it phenomenally successful, even under less than optimal weather conditions (high winds and gallons of rain).

There is 3-week intensive treatment programme for heavy infestation as well as a recommendation to dribble some into the hive over the winter if/when weather conditions allow (lowest temperature -5 degrees C, but optimally +5 and more).

My bees showed mixed reactions - some in one hive rushed to the entrance and blocked it up with their bodies, in the other two bees came up to the top of the bars with what looked like curiosity (anthropomorphism?) - but little to no aggression - maybe the very small sweet content helped. The reaction appeared to be one of mild confusion.

Because I am changing my hives over from no-gap bars to gapped bars I found that application through a long hypodermic needle caused least disturbance as the weather became colder - but you won't have that problem with a Lang.

With the first few applications the varroa fall was horrendously enormous (much too large to say) but the subsequent fall in all 3 hives has steadily diminished and now reads: 0, 4 & 7. I shall watch them like a hawk over the winter and apply more Hive Clean if the mite fall numbers rise.

Hope this helps, Vee
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Ernie Farmboy
flying bee


Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 103
Location: USA, Olympia, Washington

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:34 pm    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Thanks Vee and Nic,
I checked out that HiveClean, I may have found one more method in my arsenal against these mites.
Gareth, I know what you are saying, I really do. I just think that man had something to do with the condition of this hive and I hate to just ignore it now. My concern is between "helping" and making it worse.
Update!
Today is sunny and over 50 degree F and the girls are flying, here in the Pacific Northwest, Washington state, USA. I put a boardman feeder with a pint of honey and essential oils in the entrance. They are enjoying the offering. My plan is to monitor the sticky board for a few days to see if the drop slows down. I hoping the screen floor and some essential oil gets me into the spring with them. I just think opening the hive in the winter is too much stress on them.
Thanks for every's one help, I do appreciate the responses.
Ernie
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David Maloney
house bee


Joined: 11 Nov 2009
Posts: 20
Location: Ireland, West Cork

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy

Last edited by David Maloney on Mon May 17, 2010 9:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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Ernie Farmboy
flying bee


Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 103
Location: USA, Olympia, Washington

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi David,
Thanks, this is a new method to me. You have my curiosity up now. How long have you been doing this? Do you put the oil on the board in the summer or winter? How do your bees react when you put it in? I am always interested in different methods of doing the same thing.
Thanks,
Ernie
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David Maloney
house bee


Joined: 11 Nov 2009
Posts: 20
Location: Ireland, West Cork

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ernie,
I have been at it since spring 2008 and I have been putting it on the bord every fortnight or so I some times scipt a month, so I haven't been putting it on contiusly. The bees have never behaved in any way unusual, no falling of bees even the sound of the hive didn't go up as
it has before when I used apiguard. It's probably more effective in the summer but it does seam to evaporate when it's just the oil.
what do you think,
best wishes David
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Ernie Farmboy
flying bee


Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 103
Location: USA, Olympia, Washington

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi David,
I have been researching the essential oils treatment and what I have found is that the key ingredient in the commerical treatment is menthol and menthol is a major ingredient in most essential oils.
Well, of course, I researched Olbas oil and it has essential oils in it. I think you are on to something here. Where did you learn about this Olbas oil? If you want you can email me at my regular email address
Eschmidt158@aol.com

Ernie
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David Maloney
house bee


Joined: 11 Nov 2009
Posts: 20
Location: Ireland, West Cork

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ernie,
When I first started with treating bees I came across a site saying that wintergreen oil used to be used inside the hive to treat trachea mites I also read somewere that the fumes can also cause mite fall and help with getting rid of varroa mites (not proven). So I tryed to get the wintergreen oil but the only thing that had it inside was the olbas oil. So then thats how I started useing it.
It's mostly eucalyptus and mint oil though as you sayed it has plenty of menthol in it. Insadently they stoped putting in the winter green oil for some reason.
Also check out this page,it's quite good.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Beekeeping/Guide_to_Essential_Oils

Best wishes David
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zaunreiter
modbee


Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 1431
Location: Germany, NorthWest

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look through those pages for the grease patties and general application of essential oils:

http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/ipm/insects/pollinat/honeybee/index.htm

In my eyes if they are weakened now, it is hard to re-establish health.

Bernhard
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~ ubi apis, ibi salus ~

(latin: where bees, there health)
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Vee-aitch
guard bee


Joined: 28 Jul 2008
Posts: 83
Location: UK/Cornwall/Truro

PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:21 am    Post subject: interesting Reply with quote

Hello David,

There's a lot of information (both here and elsewhere) about essential oils - pros and cons.

But I find your application of Olbas Oil on the bottom board very interesting - presumably it's below the mesh floor, so the bees have no direct contact with it.

Currently I have patties inside the hives resting on top of the mesh containing: grease, granulated sugar, and a mix of 2 oils -Tea Tree and Patchouli - according to a paper written by people at West Virginia University. Wintergreen was the 3rd oil they considered for a final choice of 2, but there were enough views on this forum to make me stay my hand with it.

Nevertheless, for comparison next year, I shall certainly consider putting Olbas Oil on the retractable board under the mesh of one of my hives - if they get through this one... Thank you for your input!

All the best, Vee
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Conserving wild bees

Advice from Jessie Jowers of the Bee Guardian Foundation:

All the research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.

Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.

You can buy bumblebee boxes or build them yourself.

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