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biobee Site Admin

Joined: 14 Jun 2007 Posts: 5078 Location: UK, England, S. Devon
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:30 pm Post subject: Abbé Warré's vertical top bar hive |
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Abbé Emille Warré experimented with over 350 hives of various types over a period of 50 years. During that time he developed a bee-friendly, fixed-comb hive designed for minimal intervention, easy harvesting and enlargement as well as for producing honey at minimal cost of labour and capital. He called his hive la Ruche Populaire, which could be translated as 'the People's Hive'.
The vertical top bar hive designed by Abbé Warré and described in his book, "Beekeeping For All' is an alternative to the Kenyan or Tanzanian styles of horizontal hive with which readers of this forum will be familiar. It is designed for minimum intervention through the season. Although some box lifting is required at times (so it is less suitable for people with disabilities) the boxes are smaller than those of framed hives.
An English translation by Pat Cheney and David Heaf has recently been published and is available for free download here http://www.mygarden.me.uk/ModifiedAbbeWarreHive.htm _________________ The Barefoot Beekeeper
The podcast
Guide to Swarming and Swarm Management
Last edited by biobee on Thu May 08, 2008 5:24 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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David Heaf nurse bee
Joined: 21 Nov 2007 Posts: 28 Location: Wales, UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:24 am Post subject: "The People's Hive" |
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Many thanks to 'biobee' for introducing this topic to the forum.
This is to introduce myself and give more detail of a different concept in top-bar hive beekeeping, namely that of Abbé Emile Warré (? - 1951).
A Warré hive is a tiered top-bar fixed-comb hive comprising a stack of at least two boxes each of internal dimensions 300 x 300 x 210 (deep) mm with 8 top-bars in each box at 36 mm centres and 12 mm spaces between each bar and the between outside bar and the walls.
The hive allows for continuous comb growth downwards and honey is harvested from the top box(es) as the brood nest descends. Under normal management, the hive is opened in the strict sense only once a year, namely at harvest.
Warré's biggest criticism of the way beekeeping had developed since the mid-19th century was regarding the use of frames, even if the hive was not opened and the frames shuffled about.
Warré's book 'L' Apiculture Pour Tous' is now available in English at:
http://www.mygarden.me.uk/beekeeping_for_all.pdf
My Warré experiment, so far with 6 colonies, is described at
http://www.mygarden.me.uk/ModifiedAbbeWarreHive.htm
I refer to it as an experiment because the hive was developed in France and it has yet to be seen if it works in the wet, cool, maritime climate of North West Wales.
Whether the hive and its management can be adapted to conform to organic standards remains to be seen. I would welcome any initiative to test the hive in the English 'Sprachraum' and share experiences. So far, I know of Warré beekeepers only on the European mainland (D, B, CH, F).
I am happy to answer any questions on the hive and its management.
If anyone can tell me how to put umlauts, grave and acute accents etc in posts to this forum from an Apple Mac I would much appreciate it.
I will be a sporadic contributor to this forum as I do not have broadband. If you have an urgent question, you can reach me by reconstructing the following anti-spam email address:
101622 (dot) 2773 (at) compuserve (dot) com
where 'dot' and 'at' are replaced by the symbols they denote.
David Heaf
North Wales, UK
Beekeeper since 2003; hives at 30 metres over mean sea level; 17 colonies: 6 in Warré hives, 13 in 'National' (framed) hives; translated Michael Weiler's book 'Bees & Honey from Flower to Jar' (Floris Books, 2006) which includes an appendix on beekeeping under Demeter (biodynamic) certification. |
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Norm super bee

Joined: 15 Jun 2007 Posts: 3114 Location: Sweden, Färgelanda, Högsäter
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Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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Many thanks David for making all this information available to us. I myself am a great believer in minimal intrusion and have been interested in your experiments for quite some time. But I also like the simplicity of horizontal TBH's and that is the direction that I have gone for now. I have a long history with Nationals(Mid 1980's) and have tried the local Layens hives here in Spain, neither of which I think are suitable hives for long term sustainability or indeed beekeeping in a natural manner. I hope you keep us informed of any updates to your web pages.
Norm |
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moersch51 house bee
Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 22 Location: Canada, Calgary, Alberta
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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Hello David-
Thanks for all the valuable info. I downloaded and read about half of the book over the weekend, and must admit I was quite impressed, not only with the info, but with the very simple style of writing.
I do have some reservations and questions, which I'm hoping will be answered by the time I'm finished reading.
Regards
John |
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zaunreiter modbee

Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 896 Location: Germany, NorthWest
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:32 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
@Norm: TBH beekepping is simple. From what I have experienced, the Warre method is very simple, too. Even simplier? Give it a try.... _________________ ~ ubi apis, ibi salus ~
(latin: where bees, there health) |
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David Heaf nurse bee
Joined: 21 Nov 2007 Posts: 28 Location: Wales, UK
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 1:50 pm Post subject: Abbé Christ hive, forerunner to the Abbé Warré hive |
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Over Christmas I translated the document that prompted me to experiment with beekeeping in Warré hives. I have put it on the net for free download at http://www.mygarden.me.uk/thur.pdf
It comprises a couple of chapters from 'Beekeeping: natural, simple and ecological' by Johann Thur translated from Bienenzucht. Naturgerecht einfach und erfolgsicher (Wien, Gerasdorf, Kapellerfeld, 2nd ed., 1946). I found it so convincing that I asked the beekeeper at the Goetheanum in Switzerland who sent it me for plans of such a hive. In reply he said that the hive concept had been updated and that the Warré design is now used.
Thur argues that for maximum bee health a hive should mimic as near as possible the situation in a cavity, say in a hollow tree, occupied by wild/feral bees. The most important thing to note about this situation is that the combs are fixed to the roof of the cavity and to some extent to the walls. The arrangement forms cul-de-sacs or spaces between the combs that are open only at the bottom. With this arrangement, there is nowhere for rising currents of warm air to go. It observes the principle of what Thur referred to as 'Nestduftwarmebindung' which one could translate as 'retention of nest scent and heat'.
Thur then goes on to describe a type of hive that strictly observes this principle. It is the hive of Abbé Christ (1739-1813). From Thur's description of it, it is clear that it is identical in concept to Warré's. Not only that, but also, if correct conversion of the old French units of measurement are used, the internal plan of a Christ hive body appears to be 30 x 30 cm, itentical with Warré's. Yet the two men are believed to have reached their hive designs independently.
Whilst I can only speculate as to what retention of nest scent means in terms of health for the bees, I think that nobody will have difficulty with the concept of retention of nest heat. It would be an interesting task for bee science to study the importance of the quality, composition and integrity of the pheromone-laden atmosphere between the combs for bee health. |
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biobee Site Admin

Joined: 14 Jun 2007 Posts: 5078 Location: UK, England, S. Devon
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enewbold house bee
Joined: 31 Dec 2007 Posts: 8
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:08 pm Post subject: Re: "The People's Hive" |
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| David Heaf wrote: | | If anyone can tell me how to put umlauts, grave and acute accents etc in posts to this forum from an Apple Mac I would much appreciate it. | You enter specific codes into your messages for each "special" character from a table located at:
http://www.mountaindragon.com/html/iso.htm
Here is an example of a small umlaut: Small umlaut = ü
The characters I entered in the above line are actually as follows:
(I have placed a space between each letter so you can see it here.
YOU would NOT put these spaces between the letters):
S m a l l u m l a u t = & # 2 5 2 ;
Cheers,
Ed Newbold
Columbus, OH, USA |
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enewbold house bee
Joined: 31 Dec 2007 Posts: 8
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:30 pm Post subject: Re: Abbé Christ hive, forerunner to the Abbé Warré hive |
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| David Heaf wrote: | | Over Christmas I translated the document that prompted me to experiment with beekeeping in Warré hives. I have put it on the net for free download at http://www.mygarden.me.uk/thur.pdf | I thank you tremendously for providing us with this translation. I have read and re-read it numerous times during the past few days and have only a few questions requiring clarification:
1. I have read two different descriptions of the box size:
280 x 280 x 140 mm =OR=
300 x 300 x 160 mm
Which size should they be?
2. How important are these box dimensions? Could I just as easily build the box as:
12 x 12 x 6 inches?
3. EACH box (or "layer") has a set of "top bars" installed in it, correct?
4. The instructions tell us to add another box underneath the existing two boxes in the Spring. Would this not cool the brood chambers quite considerably?
5. In the Fall at harvest time, we simply "crack" the topmost box free, run a wire along the bottom of it to cut through the comb, remove the topmost box, and replace it with a cover, correct?
6. Some documents refer to a "quilt". Is this "quilt" required on a Warre-type hive, and if so, what is this quilt constructed of in modern-day materials?
I thank you so very much for helping me with the answers to these questions, and I look forward to many happy beekeeping seasons in the future.
Ed Newbold
Columbus, Ohio, USA |
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Gary Guest
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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David,
To make the pronuncion of an unlaut in english type the english character and follow it with an "e" The e takes the place of the umlaut.
Example:
The German city of Grafenwoehr written in German has an umlaut over the o (I cannot type one on my keyboard either) and no "e" between the "o" and "h" .
Does that help. |
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enewbold house bee
Joined: 31 Dec 2007 Posts: 8
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Gary wrote: | | The German city of Grafenwoehr written in German has an umlaut over the o (I cannot type one on my keyboard either) and no "e" between the "o" and "h" . Does that help. | Once again, it's simple to visit the page I indicated (http://www.mountaindragon.com/html/iso.htm), copy the code for the character you want, and paste it into your message. For example, your Grafenwoehr will come out looking like this:
Grafenwöhr or Grafenwhr
Note: I'm not conversant in German, so I don't know the proper spelling of this city - (smile).
Cheers,
Ed Newbold |
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zaunreiter modbee

Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 896 Location: Germany, NorthWest
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:28 pm Post subject: Re: Abbé Christ hive, forerunner to the Abbé Warré hive |
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Hi Ed,
I try to answer, what I'm do when beekeeping with Warre hives.
| enewbold wrote: |
1. I have read two different descriptions of the box size:
280 x 280 x 140 mm =OR=
300 x 300 x 160 mm
Which size should they be? |
Go for the 300x300 but use the height 21cm! Below I explain why.
| enewbold wrote: | 2. How important are these box dimensions? Could I just as easily build the box as:
12 x 12 x 6 inches? |
The box dimensions of the Warre hive is very important. Because of the dimensions the bees don't interconnect the sections / boxes. No need to pull a wire through! This is very convenient when harvesting. The 30 cm are the size of a bee cluster in winter. So all the edges are filled with bees. You probably can build bigger hives with wider dimensions, but you surely have to consider the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibonacci_number. To Warre beekeeper it seems, that this so called "Golden-Cut", or ratio is something that the bees use. See also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_cut
| enewbold wrote: | | 3. EACH box (or "layer") has a set of "top bars" installed in it, correct? |
Correct.
| enewbold wrote: | | 4. The instructions tell us to add another box underneath the existing two boxes in the Spring. Would this not cool the brood chambers quite considerably? |
I need less than a minute to put two sections underneath. Because the cap is not lifted the warm air stays in the hive. Try it out. Pull over a poncho. The warmth will stay. Now get out of the poncho, and step into the poncho instead of pulling over. So you can experience yourself, how it feels.
The lid is not lifted, the sections are not seperated during the extension with the two sections. The whole hive is lifted, the two sections are out below, that's it. Of course there is a little lost of warmth. But compare this with the hive inspections done by usual beekeepers, opening the hive from the top, drawing and swapping combs around.
| enewbold wrote: | | 5. In the Fall at harvest time, we simply "crack" the topmost box free, run a wire along the bottom of it to cut through the comb, remove the topmost box, and replace it with a cover, correct? |
With Warre no wire is needed. Because of the dimensions. See above. The bees don't make wax bridges between the sections.
| enewbold wrote: | 6. Some documents refer to a "quilt". Is this "quilt" required on a Warre-type hive, and if so, what is this quilt constructed of in modern-day materials?
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Cotton. But use the flour paste. _________________ ~ ubi apis, ibi salus ~
(latin: where bees, there health) |
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enewbold house bee
Joined: 31 Dec 2007 Posts: 8
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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:46 am Post subject: |
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Thanks very much, zaunreiter. Your explanations have been quite valuable to me. I am constructing the boxes now and will post some photos of my efforts when I have completed them.
Ed |
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Honey Addict new bee
Joined: 21 Jun 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Fulton, MO USA
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:36 am Post subject: |
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I'd really like to thank David Heaf for his work of translating this for all of us. I'd also like to say how encouraged I am by everyone here that I'm doing the right thing by trying to go 'natural' with my bees. I'm not much of a poster and I don't own a digital camera - some of my reasons for none of you having heard from me before. I'm currently transfering from a lang to a warre' with plans to do a few feral cut-out this coming spring (I've located 2 colonies, but haven't built them homes) - another warre' for myself and a vTBH for my wife. After a few years of her thinking I'm nuts, the 'Barefoot Beekeeper' won her over! Then again, she's a sucker for a British accent  _________________ - Jon |
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gunther flying bee
Joined: 23 Jul 2008 Posts: 120 Location: UK, Devon
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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hi everyone
i had a swarm move into a hive, beginning july. it's a national brood box with two supers without queenexcluder. i had left it last autumn, asit was, quite a bit of honey and no mite treatment. unfortunately i forgot the entrance block, and a mouse destroyed everything.
the new swarm is very gentle quite dark looking bees, and i am very enthusiastic again.
i think the warre hive is the way foreward, trying tocreate a natural environment, with very little interference.so i've lined a national box with styropor to get roughly to warre's interior size, nailed topbars across, and put it underneath the hive. i coulndt help peeping into the top, just lots of bracecomb partly filled with honey, but nothing capped yet. everything looking good now, my question is: why not use an entry hole at the top?
i've read somewhere, that a top entrance would solve the condensation problem in winter, as well as problems with slugs , mice , etc.
i love keeping bees, but not if it envolves using chemicals.
looking forward to your expert opinion/ advice |
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